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Phase Box

Treatment Criteria

Phase boxes are constructed from two pieces of gray/white board. The box is of a 4-flap design that lays out flat on a table when opened, in which state it assumes the shape of a cross. Thus, the two pieces are called simply the vertical piece and the horizontal piece.

 

Phase boxes, closed and open

Tools Needed
Board Shear
Crimper
MEASUREpHASE
Ruler
Hammer/punch
Rivet Bucker
Tweezers
Materials Needed
Gray/white board
Rivets/washers
Waxed thread
PVA

 

Measuring the height of the book First, the book is measured, using the MEASUREpHASE: length,
Measuring the width of the book width,
Measuring the thickness of the book and thickness.
Worksheet with measurements written in The measurements are recorded onto a sheet such as the one shown.
Access database form used to calculate measurements for phase boxes Overall dimensions of the two pieces (vertical and horizontal) are determined, as well as the location of the creases. Our lab uses a computer program for this; the dimensions of the book are entered, and the program calculates all the necessary measurements. However, instructions, along with drawings, are given here for calculating all these measurements manually, working from the dimensions of the book. Another method for marking the location of the creases does not involve measuring – instead the book can be laid down on the strip of board and the position of each crease is marked. In this method, one crease is marked then made. Then the next crease is marked and made, and so on.

For our example, we will say the book measures:

24.0 cm long, 12.0 cm wide, and 6.0 cm thick.

L, W, and D refer to the length, width, and depth (thickness) measurements of the book, so:

L = 24.0 cm W = 12.0 cm D = 6.0 cm

Diagram of the locations of the creases on the vertical (A) board. First, the vertical piece:

Formulas, vertical piece:

The width of the vertical piece = W.
The length of the vertical piece = 2 ½ L + 2D + 12 mm.

The location of the first crease is at: L – 1 mm.
The location of the second crease is at: L + D + 2 mm.
The location of the third crease is at: 2L + D + 5 mm.
The location of the fourth crease is at: 2L + 2D + 9 mm.

In actual numbers/measurements):

The width of the vertical piece = 12.0 cm The length of the vertical piece = 73.2 cm

The location of the first crease is at: 23.9 cm.
The location of the second crease is at: 30.2 cm.
The location of the third crease is at: 54.5 cm.
The location of the fourth crease is at: 60.9 cm.

Diagram of the position of the creases on the horizontal (B) board. Now the horizontal piece:

Formulas, horizontal piece:

The width of the horizontal piece = L + 3 mm.
The length of the horizontal piece = 3W + 2D + 18 mm.

The location of the first crease is at: W.
The location of the second crease is at: W + D + 7 mm.
The location of the third crease is at: 2W + D + 10 mm.
The location of the fourth crease is at: 2W + 2D + 16mm.

In actual numbers/measurements:

The width of the horizontal piece = 24.3 cm The length of the horizontal piece = 49.8 cm

The location of the first crease is at: 12.0 cm.
The location of the second crease is at: 18.7 cm.
The location of the third crease is at: 31.0 cm.
The location of the fourth crease is at: 37.6 cm.

Cutting the pieces of board on the board shear We are now ready to make the horizontal and vertical pieces from grey/white board.

Grain direction for both pieces is grain short. This puts the grain running parallel to the blade of the crimper, which we will be using to make the creases.

The cut marks for the pieces are made on the board and each piece is marked with the following information:

* its line number from the measurements sheet, and

* “H” or “V”, to denote whether it is the horizontal or vertical piece

The horizontal and vertical pieces are cut to their overall dimensions, using the board shear.

One strip of board with crease locations marked The locations of the creases are now marked onto the pieces.
Rounding the board corners The corners of both pieces are rounded, using the corner rounder.
Close up of a rounded corner Here is shown the radius cut by the corner rounder.
Board position in the crimper The blade of the crimper is aligned with each mark …
Making the crease on the crimper … and the crease is made.
Board with creases made This image shows the vertical piece with its four creases. The same procedure is followed for the horizontal piece.

 

Hand punch for making holes in the board Next, two holes are punched in what will be the right hand edge of the horizontal piece. These are to accommodate the rivets. Here is the type of punch used, one with a hollow, tapered end. The cutaway in the side allows for removal of the scrap plugs that accumulate inside the punch. It punches the holes by means of striking it with a hammer, and this is done on a designated “punch pad”, which is a pad made of about 8 or 10 thicknesses of binder’s board.

 

Board with two holes punched The holes are centered between the two creases of the edge and located about 1″ in from each end.

 

Rivets and washers that are used as closures Here are the views from both ends of the rivets used for closures, showing the two components, the expansion core and the dress head. Also pictured is the neoprene washer.

 

Close up of the Mandel of the rivet bucker This is the mandrel of the rivet bucker. The flared end of the rivet’s core fits onto the conical pin in the center.

 

The two parts of the rivet positioned on the mandrel of the rivet bucker The core is smaller in diameter than the dress head and thus fits inside it. Here is an exposed view of the expansion core, without the dress head, before and after bucking, showing that it expands inside the dress head and locks the two halves of the rivet together.

 

The top rivet piece, then the washer, then the board, then the bottom rivet piece are put in place. The hole in the washer is aligned with the hole in the board, on the gray side. The core is pushed through the hole from the white side, so that it protrudes through the board and the washer on the gray side. The dress head is snapped onto the core, the flared end of the core is positioned on the conical pin of the mandrel, and the rivet is ready to buck.

 

Pulling the handle of the rivet bucker down to press the rivet pieces together The lever of the rivet bucker is simply pulled down. This lowers the plunger, which is concave to mate with the convex curve of the dress head. When the downward force is exerted, the core expands inside the dress head, locking the two halves of the rivet together and securing the captive position of the washer.

 

Inside view of the board with the rivets in place Here is the view after bucking, from the white side (inside) …

 

Board with rivet and washer in place from the outside of the board … and from the gray side (outside).

 

Board with rivets in place folded up The horizontal piece is now folded as shown, in order to determine the location of the holes the ties will pass through. The ties are made from pieces of waxed thread.

 

Diagram indicating how to locate the holes for the ties The holes are located as follows:

1. Directly in line with the center of each rivet and about 1 centimeter from the edge of the board. In the directions that follow, this will be called the outer hole.

2. About 1 cm from the first hole, at about a 45 degree angle inward. This will be called the inner hole.

 

Threading the tie through the holes The tie is threaded up through the outer hole (on the left in the image), then down through the inner hole, then back up through the outer hole. A rather long tail is left below, as shown. Note that in this and the following illustrations, the inside (white side) of the board is facing up.

 

Winding the end of the tie around to secure it The loose end passing through the outer hole is wound about 3 or 4 times around the other piece of the tie passing through this hole.

 

Pulling the loose end of the tie around the edge of the board and through The two are separated down at the surface of the board, and the loose end is pulled back through. Tweezers are very handy for this, as seen in the illustration.

 

Pulling there knot snug The entire knot is held securely to the board with one finger, and the long tail below is pulled until the knot is snug. The tie is now finished.

 

Finished tie, exterior view And here is the exterior view of the finished tie.

 

The two boards positioned for gluing The two pieces are now ready to be glued together, following which they are weighted and left for about a day. Straight PVA is the adhesive used, as this is a board-to-board joint. The vertical piece goes on top, as shown.

The closing order is marked on the flaps. The top one reads “fold this flap first”, and the others are numbered. The order is: top, bottom, right, left.

 

Finished phase box, closed and open Here the finished enclosure is shown in both the open and closed states.

 

License

Indiana University Libraries Book Repair Manual Copyright © 2025 by Trustees of Indiana University. All Rights Reserved.