18 At least two bowls

Warm. Filling. Delicious. Cheap. These were the words my mother used to describe a dish that she felt was important to her. I grew up in a single parent household, and eating out was a luxury; therefore, my exposure to food was almost entirely through her. She had just immigrated from Russia and found herself struggling immensely as she faced both the challenges of moving across the world and her husband’s recent death. Despite this, she was a fast learner and was able to quickly adapt to her surroundings. This manifested itself in many ways — her English, her job, her social circle — all of which are obvious and natural steps of integration. However, her food changed as well. She no longer had easy access to the ingredients she considered common in Siberia. Kroger didn’t have fresh whole salmon, wild mushrooms, or juicy black currants. How did my mother  pivot? How did she adapt to the foodways of Indiana? What is the one dish most important to her during this process? To further explore these questions, I interviewed her on November 8th, 2024.

Although she has an impressive repertoire of recipes, she seemed specifically fixated on a soup she used to make, and her reasoning became clearer as I questioned her further. This recipe was not just important from a nutritional standpoint; it represents my family’s circumstances and journey all in the context of life in suburban Indiana. The dish in question is a creamy soup of Tuscan origin with the stars of the show being pork sausage, kale, and potatoes. It is commonly known as Zuppa Toscana; however, my family’s discovery of the recipe did not occur in the rolling hills of Italy. Rather, we encountered it through the Midwest equivalent — a fine Italian establishment known as Olive Garden. As my mother stated during the interview, it was the “closest thing we had” (Ake 2024). For a family on food stamps, dining out was already rare enough. A trip to an establishment as elegant and lavish as Olive Garden? Forget about it. We were lucky to go once a year, but we made sure to make the most of it when that chance arose. The phrase “stuffing ourselves” is perhaps the best way to describe how we took advantage of the unlimited soup, salad, and breadstick deal. How are you supposed to soak up the soup in the bottom of the bowl without a breadstick? I can confidently say we all looked forward to the soup more than our entrees.

As I mentioned, these chances were few and far between, but our cravings for the soup were not. For my mother, the solution was obvious; she would just make it herself. She explained to me how she consulted friends, the internet, and her own experience eating the soup to create the recipe we all enjoy today. Using readily-available and cheap ingredients, she created an imitation that rivaled the original; it was an upgrade in my eyes. The low price of pork was a point of discussion as well. She told me that it is vital that extra pepper flakes are added when the sausage is being browned. “They call it spicy sausage on the package, but it’s weak. It’s like there’s no spice” (Ake 2024). Indiana is known for its pork, and its production and consumption have been important to life here since the 20th century (Magoulick 2014). In this context, the recipe was perfect. It was economically-feasible, and the entire family could be included in its production. I cut the onions while my sisters washed the kale and minced the garlic.

Even as I’m writing this piece, I have a pot of Zuppa Toscana sitting in my fridge, taste improving by the day as the flavors get to know each other. Despite how filling it is, I can ever have one bowl; I need at least two bowls. I look back on it fondly, and its taste and ingredients remind me of my origins in Indiana, my family and our situation, and my childhood. To me, it reflects my mother’s immigration and the struggles that manifested. But most of all, it highlights her perseverance and adaptability. Your situation truly is what you make it.

Kale and Potato Soup with Sausage

Ingredients

• 1 lb spicy pork sausage
• 1.5 lbs Yukon gold potatoes, diced
• 1 large onion, diced
• 1 head of garlic, minced
• 1 large bunch of kale, chopped
• 1 cup of heavy whipping cream
• 6 cups of chicken stock
• Salt and pepper
• 1 tsp red pepper flakes
• Olive oil

How to Prepare

1. On medium heat in a large stockpot, sauté the sausage in olive oil until browned. Add the red pepper flakes until fragrant then remove the mixture from the pot and put aside. In the residual oil, sauté the onion and garlic until translucent. Add the potatoes and re-introduce the sausage mixture into the pan and then pour in the chicken stock.
2. Bring the mixture to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes and then add the cream and kale. Cook covered for an additional 5 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.

References

Magoulick, M. (2014). Foodways of Southern Indiana in the Early 20th Century. Digest: A Journal of Foodways and Culture, 2(2).

Ake, Liliana. Virtual interview by Alexander Ake. LaPorte, IN, November 9, 2024.